Better late than never, I am here to report that the trip back to the motherland was a whirlwind success. Five of us (including three Mardi Gras virgins) left Austin on Friday at near midnight is a slightly cramped, but fuel efficient rental car, and landed in NOLA at 8am. The drive was uneventful, thankfully, and I am always amused and moved by the site of the swampland as the sun rises over the Atchafalaya Basin.
We unloaded the car, and with the exception of Sweets (ever the smart and practical one) we sat around talking for a few hours rather than catching a nap before continuing with the days adventures. Having literally about 36 hours in town, we were not going to have much time to lounge around and still do what we wanted.
We headed into “god’s country” — St. Bernard Parish — to that ever-present bastion of old world family dining, Rocky & Carlos. Now, if you’ve never been, Rocky’s is a little dive of a restaurant that has been around since Jesus was still dining from Mary’s tit. Italian family-style dining (and I mean both “family” and “Family”, knowhatimsayin’? Fuhgettaboutit.), and before the flood (which was the best cleaning that place ever had), the atmosphere at Rocky’s was so special and unique that you could scrape it off the walls with a cracker. I miss the old microwave that used to be on top of the broiler… it had a hole melted in the door from the heat, and the staff used to just reach through it, rather than open it.
Afterwards, we joined some folks for the Endymion parade. We were right at the beginning where the bands, flambeaux and horseback riders were inserted into the parade. It wasn’t as visceral an experience as being in the crowds downtown, but it was still a good time. I think I take more joy from the company I’m with at parades, than the actual parades themselves… and to have three newcomers (one of which was my sweetie), and to share their joy at the strangeness of it all was worth every second on the road driving there and back.
After Endymion, we had dinner at Crescent City Brewhouse with the intention of a foray into the French Quarter, just for the sake of the thing. Once we neared the end of the meal, the travel exhaustion caught up with us, and the adrenaline from the parade wore off, and we decided to head bedward. Needless to say, we all slept like the dead.
The next morning we woke, nibbled on some breakfast and chatted for a bit, then headed out for some lunch at R&O’s in Bucktown. After starting life as a pizza joint, they eventually blossomed into a fully fledged Italian restaurant, then expanded into poboys, seafood, and other local staples. R&O’s is by far my favorite seafood/sammich shop in NOLA, with a consistently yummy seafood gumbo — and true to their eclectic form — dynamite tamales.
After lunch, we did a little shopping for local supplies not easily obtained in Austin: tasso (nobody’s even heard of it here), andouille (a nice hot, but not so hot you can’t taste anything else variety — a concept that seems to escape andouille makers everywhere but in Louisiana), Crystal hot sauce, and honest to goodness King Cakes (12 in all). After stowing it all back with our gear at the house, we left to attend Bacchus.
Surprisingly, we managed to park about 6 blocks away from Napoleon Ave., and we hoofed it down to meet Lisa, Slinky and relations. We were met there by Scarlett and Nightshade, and Sancho joined in as well. A good time was had by all. Bacchus is still my favorite downtown parade.
We retreated to our car after the parade, and made a beeline for Lola’s in hopes that they were still open for dinner. Lola’s is a mix of Spanish/Creole cooking, and they have the best paella dishes EVAR! If you avoid garlic, avoid Lola’s at all costs. It’s a small place, but the food is always consistently wonderful, and any wait to be seated is well worth it.
After dinner, we gathered up our gear, groceries and selves, and got on the road back to Austin. Again, we had a mercifully uneventful drive home. Dropped off the rental car and we all crashed like coma victims in our respective beds.
All in all, it was a good, if short trip, and it scratched the Mardi Gras itch for another year. Until then, I leave you with this gem.